Classic styles with a relaxed feel permeated Milan runways on Sunday, the second day of menswear previews for next spring and summer.
Bottega Veneta, Ferragamo and Emporio Armani showed updated versions of the well-tailored summer silhouette, easy to wear and easy to pack.
Bottega Veneta and Armani both played with layers and ultralight fabrics. Ferragamo trotted out well-worn raffia hats and derby shoes, echoing a 1930s artistic look, and high-waisted trousers that are emerging as a trend for next summer.
Less beholden to tradition were Prada and Vivienne Westwood. Minimalist Prada allowed herself to have fun, seeking inspiration in golf, of all things. What emerges is a colourful, upbeat pastiche that works on and off the golf course.
Britain's Vivienne Westwood, thinking ahead to the 2012 Olympic Games in London, presented whacky T-shirts printed with Olympic icons, fanciful laurel wreaths and golden Greek sandals.
Prada: Golf inspired Prada's collection.
The motif, designer Miuccia Prada said, allowed her to merge ideas and cultures.
The collection was perfectly balanced, featuring whimsical comic book figures on shirts, trousers and jackets. Some trousers showed a miniature golfing tableau. A jacket was printed with musical figures.
The backbone of the collection came in the well-tailored jackets, trousers and sweaters in neutral colours that became the blank canvas for Prada's whimsy.
Ferragamo
Massimiliano Giornetti, the new creative director for the steeped-in-tradition Ferragamo label, inspired by the compelling nonchalance of a 1930s artist — Pablo Picasso fits the picture — creates a wardrobe which is elegant but never stuffy.
His summer man sports a double-breasted suit with a shirt in the same material and high-waisted trousers with pleats. He strolls through life wearing a frayed raffia hat, vintage shades, and classic Derby shoes that allow him to escape into his romantic world.
Bottega Veneta
Though dressed in rumpled suits and clutching soft colourful leather bags, the Bottega Veneta man is no slouch.
The collection contained pattern upon pattern in light, easy-to-wear fabrics that give the impression of endless possibilities, including business meeting, pool-side party, or a seaside dash. Colours were deep tourmaline blue, chocolate and indigo, set off by pewter or beige.
Suits with mandarin collars and short waistbands give the appearance of a single piece, in another era a jump suit. Think airplane mechanic, first class.
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood is gearing up for the 2012 Olympic Games in London.
T-shirts were emblazoned with gold-embossed Olympic torches, iconic Greek athletic figures and printed Olympic medals draped around the neckline. They were worn with shorts, in pinstripes or Union Jack red, white and blue, with golden Greco-style sandals or bright red penny-loafers accompanied by knee-socks.
Emporio Armani
The Emporio Armani collection was titled Lightness. It could just as aptly have been called Motion.
From the double-darted trousers, to the thin ties, the long loopy belts, the lightweight T-shirts and the long, open jackets, everything flowed in a gentle whisper.
Suits were layered with loose-knit cardigans on top of ultra-light T-shirts. Loose long jackets were nearly see-through. The colour scheme was sober and neutral in greys, putty and blue. Missing from the runway: shorts.